The DreamLine Enigma X glass shower door, tub door or enclosure brings an air of sophistication and luxury with its modern and fully frameless barnstyle shower door design. For this High quality Shower Door. We included Customer Reviews & Installation Video As well as the installation manual. You will also find the download link for manual in PDF format.
I think that the DreamLine Enigma X Glass Shower Door Impresses with it’s totally frame-less design. As well as it’s exceptional crafted stainless-steel components. And that both features combined deliver an ideal mix of exceptional quality. Simply put the Enigma shower solutions are extraordinary and high quality Glass Shower Enclosures.
As the design alone would not be sufficient enough the DreamLine had to add another special feature to is pride piece.
Get this … this Glass Shower Door is SELF-CLEANING!
I am not kidding and no BS … The glass panels of the Enigma have a special-glass-finish that DreamLine calls “ClearMax”.
ClearMax works basically as a water repellent. As a result the glass wall and door will never show any water spots or stains. What makes it almost maintenance free.
That’s great news because this alone saves you on average about 32 hours per year with your Squeegee or towel to keep her spotless.
Trust me … I was skeptical too. However, I have seen the action after I installed the same model for some clients and it does work!
However that’s still not all. … The DreamLine exclusive glass treatment also acts as a sort of stain blocker. And will keep the enigma glass sliding shower door free of any discoloration. So it really is also a first-grade defense for blemishes.
I think all this alone, makes choosing the cool urban style Shower-Enclosure a no-brainer. Because it will keep your your custom glass shower door with it’s resistant 10mm thick glass looking new for years to come.
The design makes a left or right hand install almost effortless.
DreamLine Enigma X Glass Shower Door Dimensions:
56-60 in. W x 76 in. H;
Door Opening: 23-27 in.
The coordinating SlimLine shower base incorporates a low profile design for an unobtrusive modern look.
DreamLine Enigma X Glass Shower Door Features:
Frameless glass design. The model consists of one sliding door and one stationary inline panel.
Effortless glass sliding door operation with large wheel assembly on a stainless steel track (bar).
Track (bar) may be shortened up to 4 in. for width (horizontal) adjustment. No out of plumb (vertical) adjustment.
Reversible installation for a right or left side shower door opening .
Premium 3/8 in. (10mm) thick ANSI certified clear tempered glass.
Anti-splash threshold to prevent water spills (requires minimum threshold depth of 2 3/4 in.).
Wall studs or other reinforcement behind finished walls required for installation.
30 in. x 60 in. Single Threshold Shower Base: High-quality scratch and stain resistant acrylic.
Slip-resistant textured floor for safe showering.
Integrated tile flange for easy installation and waterproofing
Fiberglass reinforcement for durability, cUPC certified.
High quality and cool urban Design Custom Glass Shower Doors
DreamLine Enigma X Glass Shower Door Kit Installation Requirements:
The Stainless-steel top rail can be trimmed down approximately 4 in. to fit into the shower stall;
It is designed to rest on a minimum of 2-3/4″ Shower base wall.
Optionally you can purchase the kit that includes the perfectly matching Shower-Base in white. That by the way is scratch and slip resistant.
MOST IMPORTANTLY: This version possesses NO correction for out-of-plumb walls or jagged wall surfaces since there is no frame to absorb these imperfections. So please verify this before you order.
I installed the unit by myself.
However, these 10mm thick high-quality glass door and side panel that make up the sliding shower door. As well as some of the tub doors are very heavy. And because they are so very heavy I would really recommend a professional installer. Or at least a two men install.
The supplier offers a limited lifetime warranty on this product.
Customer Reviews – DreamLine Enigma X Glass Shower Door
Following are the strongest Pro & Con Customer Review that I found for the Dreamline Enigma Shower Door:
Pro: 5 out of 5 stars
This shower door was the perfect finishing touch to a master bath facelift
By LabManon December 2, 2015
Color: Brushed Stainless Steel|Verified Purchase
This custom glass shower door was the perfect finishing touch to a master bath facelift. The house was built in the mid 80’s and the original shower an embarrassment for a master bath.
It was a cramped 32″ square affair sporting that stylish 4″ square white tile of the time, enclosed with a cheap Plexiglas framed door that seemed to be a magnet for soap residue goo.
A failed shower pan triggered a full blown gut & remodel that permitted us to change the room layout to something more usable and appealing. We expanded the shower to 3’x5′ and tiled with a darker tile and oil rubbed bronze fixtures for a more dramatic effect.
The result was as elegant as we’d hoped, but it also called for an enclosure that would enhance the appearance. Enigma-X was the first frameless sliding glass door that came up in my search and the one I kept coming back to on the quest.
Though it wasn’t available in ORB as the rest of the bathroom is outfitted with we took the plunge anyways and we’re glad we did. It looks fantastic, glides like a dream and from the glass to the hardware screams quality. And for only $800 with free delivery? No brainer if you ask me.
I’m a DIY guy with years of remodeling experience under my belt, but based on some of the other reviewers comments decided to let the pros handle this install.
Took a while to locate a glass company that would install a product not purchased through them, but finally found a winner in Fuquay Glass. The crew that came exceeded my expectations on every level and the outcome of their work nothing short of exceptional as I hope the picture shows.
To wrap it up, I would not hesitate to purchase this product again nor hesitate to recommend it to others. And if you live in the Raleigh,Durham NC area, I highly recommend Fuquay Glass. I’d use their services again in a heartbeat.
You are dead unless you are very savvy, have strong partner, buy separate screws, have a metal hacksaw, and your walls are plumb
By B Specialon November 28, 2015
Color: Brushed Stainless Steel|Verified Purchase
I’m a very handy homeowner. I’ve built many large projects.
Unless you are very savvy and have a strong partner, you are dead if you try to install this alone. Installation instructions are average.
There are some critical elements that are understated or not stated at all. Depending on how adaptable and discerning you are you may still be dead even if you are savvy and have a strong partner.
Now for the features. The finish quality of the glass and hardware is good. The drip guards that go on the edge of the glass to keep water from pouring out into the bathroom are lame.
They are a pretty purplish vinyl that detracts from the beauty of the shower. They are not especially effective at blocking water either. WARNING: the stainless steel screws that hold the guardblock are crap.
Stated another way you are absolutely dead if you use them. They will break in half as you screw them in leaving half the screw lodged in the tile. Save yourself the trouble and toss them. Go to the hardware store and buy your own #6 1″ stainless steel pan screws.
You’ll need 3 of them. Tools you’ll need: a legit metal hacksaw (you are sawing through a 1″ hollow metal rod that is 1/8″ thick. You are also sawing through a 1/2″ metal drip guard).
If you are drilling through tile you’ll need some drill bits for tile. Get a 1/8″, a 3/8″, and a 5/16″ Have a clue what you are doing when you are drilling. Your drill speed should be much less than 2000rpm.
Drill slowly. Last thing, you’ll not be able to use this door if your walls and floor are not plumb. As in dead 90 degree angles. Mine was off a smidge and I got crafty and made it work but it took me bulk of a day to install this.
NOTE: The door that Dreamline sent me had a cracked corner. I’m requesting a new door.
Below you can check the dreamline enigma x customer reviews . With a total of 87% 4-5 Stars from 147 customer reviews.
Now you should watch how to install the dreamline enigma x installation video .
Cost: $ 764.87 ( since [11-26-2018] – wp_automatic_amazon_disclaimer” headline=”Item rates as well as supply are actually precise since the date/time signified as well as undergo alter. Any kind of rate as well as supply details presented on[relevant Amazon Site(s), as applicable] back then from investment are going to relate to the investment of this particular item.” > Information)
STEP-BY-STEP SHOWER DOOR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:
The 10mm thick high-quality glass door & wall panel of your sliding shower door or tub doors are very heavy. Since they are very heavy I recommend a professional installer.
DreamLine ® reserves the right to alter, modify or redesign products at any time without prior notice. For the latest up-to-date technical drawings, manuals, warranty information or additional details please refer to your model’s web page on DreamLine.com
*The SPARKLE model name designates a model with the MirrorMax patterned glass. The installation is identical to the Enigma-X.
Right Hand door installation shown
07- Brushed Stainless Steel
08- Polished Stainless Steel
Please read these instructions carefully before installing. If you have any questions regarding installation, please contact our technical support specialists.
Monday through Friday 8:00 AM – 7:00 PM EST
at Phone: 1-866-731-2244, Fax: 1-866-857-3638 or e-mail our technical support group at Support@DreamLine.com For more information about DreamLine® Shower Doors & Tub Doors please visit DreamLine.com
DreamLine Enigma X Glass Shower Door / SPARKLE*
STEP-BY-STEP SHOWER DOOR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
DreamLine® reserves the right to alter, modify or redesign products at any time without prior notice.
For the latest up-to-date technical drawings, manuals, warranty information or additional details please refer to your model’s web page on DreamLine.com
Please read these instructions carefully before installing. If you have any questions regarding installation, please contact our technical support specialists Monday through Friday 8:00 AM – 7:00 PM EST at Phone:
1-866-731-2244, Fax: 1-866-857-3638 or e-mail our technical support group at Support@DreamLine.com
For more information about DreamLine ® Shower Doors & Tub Doors please visit DreamLine.com
Right hand door installation shown as an example
Guide Rail Brackets must be firmly attached to the wall. Installation into a
stud is strongly recommended. All of the guide rail bracket set screws must be tightened.
Thread Lock must be applied to both stopper set screws.
Panel-side stopper must be installed into the pre-drilled stopper hole in the upper guide rail.
Door-side stopper must be installed at the proper position to stop the door from contacting the wall.
Roller Wheel Safety Set Screws must be re-tightened after installation
Roller Guards must be postioned and secured within 1/16” of Upper Guide Rail
Bumper Vinyl Seal must be installed on the closing edge of the door glass
The Guide Block must be screwed to the threshold and installed square to the panel
glass and door glass. Installing the guide block crooked may damage the bottom edge of the door glass and lead to breakage.
PLEASE READ THE ENCLOSED INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR DETAILS REGARDING PROPER INSTALLATION.
THE LATEST VERSION OF THE INSTALLATION MANUAL IS AVAILABLE TO VIEW OR PRINT ON DREAMLINE.COM
Preparation to install the DreamLine Enigma X Glass Shower Door
After opening all boxes and packages, read this introduction carefully. Check that all of the needed parts are included in the package by marking all the components on the “Detailed Diagram of Shower Door Components”. Examine boxes and packages for shipping damage. If the unit has been damaged, has a finishing defect, or is missing parts, please contact our customer support department within
3 business days of the delivery date. Please note that DreamLine® will not replace any damaged products or missing parts free of charge after 3 business days or if the product has been installed. Please contact DreamLine® if you have any questions.
Please note that you should consult your local building codes with questions on installation compliance standards. Building and plumbing codes may vary by location, and DreamLine® is not responsible for code compliance standards for your project and will not accept any returns.
If this unit is going to be installed in a new construction, install all of the required plumbing and drain- age before installing the shower.
Use a competent and licensed (if required by local code) plumber for all DreamLine Enigma X plumbing installation.
Prior to installation, ensure that the installation surface is leveled and solid and will be able to support the total weight of the unit. Also, make sure the walls are at right angles. Irregular installation surface level or improper angle of side walls will result in serious problems for your installation. Please note that some adjustments and drilling might be necessary during the installation process.
Please make sure that prior to beginning the installation, the surfaces are leveled and solid and will be able to support the total weight of the unit. Also make sure the walls are at right angles. Irregular installation surface level, radius corners or improper angle of side walls will result in serious problems for your installation. Please note that some adjustments and drilling might be necessary during the installation process.
Please protect all primary surfaces of the product during installation.
Never set your glass down directly onto a tile floor.
. Leave corner protectors in place until necessary to remove them. Always use a piece of wood or cardboard to protect the bottom edge and corners of the glass prior to and during installation.
This unit must be installed upon a finished threshold and against finished walls.
NOTE! The DreamLine Enigma X does not have out-of-plumb adjustment. Make sure your walls are at right angles.
The DreamLine Enigma X shower door requires a minimum 2-3/4”of flat threshold space for installation.
Please note that Step #11 has an option for installing the guide rail brackets to the wall using anchors. However, the manufacturer strongly recommends installing these heavy doors to the studs or to pre-installed 2×6 wood reinforcements behind the wall in the area where the guide rail brackets will be attached to the wall.
Note: The installation of this unit requires that you drill down into the threshold.
image Attention: This door is extremely heavy and requires professional installation and 2 installers.
NOTE: This door is reversible for right or left-hand door installation. The right-hand door installation is shown as an example throughout this manual. For the left -hand door installation, simply begin on the opposite wall and reverse the orientation of the steps shown.
Needed Tools For The DreamLine Enigma X Glass Shower Door Installation
image image image
Drill bit Drill bit
(Ø=3/8″) (Ø=1/4″) Caulk Power Hammer Chop saw and Hacksaw
(10mm) (6mm) Drill
Painter’s Tape Razor Knife
NOTE: Unpack your unit carefully and inspect it. Lay it out and identify all parts using the detailed diagram and packing list in this manual as a reference. Before discarding the carton, check for small hardware bags that may have fallen to the bottom of the box. If any parts are damaged or missing, please contact DreamLine ® for replacement. The shipping boxes may contain extra parts not used in your model configuration.
Detailed Diagram ‘A’ of the Dremline Enigma X Glass Shower Door Components
Packing List A
These instructions will show the installation of the DreamLine Enigma X glass shower door. ** not used with the 72” configuration Please follow the same steps for the installation of the tub door.
Detailed Diagram ‘B’ of the dreamline glass shower door components (for 72” model width)
Measure the distance between the two finished walls at the top, middle and bottom. This distance is marked as “W”.
Also, check the threshold for level and the walls for plumb.
Note: The minimum threshold requirement for the DreamLine Enigma X Glass Shower Door is 2-3/4” of flat threshold space.
2-3/4” W minimum
The Upper Guide rail (#03) has been pre-cut for the model width of: 48”, 60” or 72” (the actual rail is shorter
than the model width by design).
Cut the Upper Guide rail (#03) from the door end only, which is the end that is farther from the Glass bracket (#07) holes. The length to cut off will be “L” :
Model Width – finished opening W = cut off length L
See Fig 2 for details
glass bracket holes
If the model width is 48” and the finished opening is 46”, then you will need to cut 2” off from the door end of the rail:
Example: 48” – 46” = 2” cut off
Model Width – finished opening W = cut off length L
*Note that this is only an example and the actual cut-off length will vary based on the actual finished opening dimension.
Attach the Upper guide rail (#03) to the Stationary glass 1 2
(#02) with the Glass brackets (#07) and tighten the bolts into
the pre-drilled holes in the Upper guide Rail (#03). Make sure both adjustment disks are installed in the same direction with the high spot towards the door end. (see *Note below)
Make sure that the guide rail is attached parallel with the top
edge of the stationary panel glass.
Slide the Door Stoppers (#01) onto each end of the Upper 3 4
guide rail (#03) and secure them temporarily using the 4mm allen wrench. (#11). Install the panel-end stopper into the pre-drilled stopper hole in the Upper Guide Rail (Fig 3.3). Slide the Guide Rail brackets (#08) onto each end of the Upper guide rail (#03) and temporarily secure them as well.
Next, assemble the Wall Bracket (#19) onto the bottom 5 6
corner of the Stationary glass (#02) as shown in FIG 3.5.
Use the provided gaskets to protect the glass shower door elements.
See Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 for details glass bracket Fig 3
*NOTE: The outer glass bracket disk has an eccentric bushing for adjustment. Be sure to install both glass bracket disks with the high spot of the bushing pointed towards the door end of the guide rail. See the detail of the disks below as viewed from inside prior to installing on the glass.
Door end of guide rail High spot of disk bushing
This step shows the Small Stationary glass bracket (#21) installation for the 72” model only (not included with the 60” model).
If the width of your model is 72” and includes the Small Stationary glass (#23), attach the Small Stationary glass bracket (#21) to the Upper guide rail for 72” (#24) between the Door stopper (#01) and the Guide Rail bracket (#08) as shown in Fig. 5.
This bracket will be repositioned when the Small 1
Stationary glass (#23), is installed.
See Fig 5 for details
If the width of your model is 72” and includes the Small Stationary glass (#23), assemble the Wall Bracket (#19) onto the larger notch at the bottom corner of the Small Stationary glass (#23).
Use the provided gaskets to protect the glass shower door.
See Fig 6 for details
Place the Stationary glass (#02) with the Upper Guide Rail (#03) onto the threshold and position it against the wall.
(Please note that the Stationary Glass (#02) installs on the outside and the Upper guide rail (#03) goes on the inside of the shower)
Make sure the Stationary glass (#02) and the Upper guide rail (#03) are leveled.
If a horizontal adjustment is required, adjust it by loosening, rotating and re-tightening the disks on the Glass brackets (#07).
See Fig 7 for details
rotate disk(s) to level rail
This step shows the Small Stationary Glass (#23) installation for the 72” model only (not included with the 60” model).
rotate disk(s) to level rail
If installing the DreamLine Enigma X Glass Shower Door 72” model:
Unscrew the disk from the Small Stationary glass bracket (#21) and loosen the set screw that secures the bracket to the guide rail. If necessary, slide the Door Stopper (#01) away from the area so that it will not interfere with the placement of the Small Stationary Glass (#23).
Position the Small Stationary Glass (#23) onto the threshold and butt it up against the wall.
Align the Small Stationary glass bracket (#21) with the hole in the Small Stationary Glass (#23), re-attach the outer disk and secure the Small Stationary glass bracket (#21) to the Upper guide rail for 72”(#24).
See Fig 8a & 8b for details
Once the Upper Guide Rail (#03) is level, mark the position of the Wall bracket (#19) and Guide Rail brackets (#08) on the wall.
*NOTE: If installing the 72” model, perform the same procedure on the opposite wall to mark the Wall bracket (#19) for the Small stationary panel glass (#23). (Fig 9.4*)
See Fig 9 for details
Make sure that your Stationary glass (#02) is parallel to the front edge of the threshold and mark it.
Slide the Guide Block (#12) into the notch of the Stationary glass (#02), and align flush with the edge (Fig 10a). Mark its position and also mark the hole for drilling using a pencil (or center punch.)
Note: If installing the 72” model, also position the Small Stationary glass bottom bracket (#22) with the edge of the Small stationary Glass (#23) (Fig 10b) and mark its position and the hole for drilling.
See Fig 10a & 10b for details
Fig 10a Fig 10b
After marking the positions of all the hardware, set the Stationary glass (#02) with the Upper Guide Rail (#03) aside.
(If installing the 72” model, also remove the Small stationary panel glass (#23) from the Upper Guide Rail (#03)).
Remove the Guide Rail Brackets (#08) from the Upper Guide Rail (#03) and the Wall bracket (#19) from the Stationary glass (#02). Place the Wall bracket (#19) and Guide Rail Brackets (#08) back to the outlined positions and mark the 3 4* holes for drilling.
*NOTE: If installing the 72” model, perform the same procedure on the opposite wall to mark the Wall bracket (#19) for the Small stationary panel glass (#23). (Fig 11.4*)
See Fig 11 for details
Separate the Guide Rail Bracket (#08) sleeve from the base by loosening the set screws (leave the sleeve on the upper guide rail)
base 1 2
**NOTE: Step #11 has an option for installing the guide rail brackets to the wall using anchors. However, the manufacturer strongly recommends installing these heavy doors to the studs or to pre-installed 2×6 wood reinforcements behind the wall in the area where the guide rail brackets will be attached to the wall.
**For the recommended installation into a stud, drill a Ø1/4”
hole up to the stud and let the screw bore into the wood.
Drill a hole for the Wall bracket (#19) using a Ø5/16” (8mm) drill bit and insert the Wall anchor (#9b) (FIG. 12.1 & 12.2).
Drill the holes for the Guide Rail brackets (#08) using a Ø3/8” (10mm) drill bit and insert the Wall anchors (#9a). (FIG 12.3…12.6)**.
If mounting into a stud (recommended), drill a Ø1/4” hole and do not use the wall anchors (see note above).
Fasten the Wall bracket (#19) to the wall using the ST4.2×55 Truss head screw (#18).(Fig 13.1) Mount the base parts of the Guide Rail brackets (#08) onto both walls using the ST6×55 Large Truss head screw (#10). Note that the adjustment set screws must be aligned vertically for easier access to adjust for level after the glass is installed.
See Fig 13 for details
13a. To install Guide Block (#12): Loosen the set screw and remove the guide block face plate (Fig. 14a.5) Apply silicone to the underside of the Guide Block (#12) and screw the Guide Block (#12) to the threshold as described below:
◾For installation into an acrylic threshold:
drill an Ø1/8”(3mm) hole and use the ST4.2 x 40mm countersunk screw (#17)
◾For installation into a tile threshold:
drill a Ø5/16”(8mm) hole, install wall anchor 5/16” (#09b) and use the ST4.2 x 40mm countersunk screw (#17)
For tub installations: the bottom bracket must be screwed down to the tub deck. Use a pencil or a center-punch to mark the hole only use anchor 3 with tile threshold
See Fig 14a for details
Part#12 – Guide Block (with caps)
Guide Block must be installed square to the plane of the glass
13b. If installing the 72” model, repeat step#13a for the Small Stationary Glass bottom bracket (#22). Loosen the set screw and remove the guide block face plate (Fig. 14b.5) Apply silicone to the underside of the Guide Block (#22) and screw the Guide Block (#22) to the threshold.
◾For installation into an acrylic threshold:
drill an Ø1/8”(3mm) hole and use the ST4.2 x 25mm countersunk screw (#17) use a pencil or a center-punch to mark the hole 2
◾For installation into a tile threshold:
drill a Ø5/16”(8mm) hole and use the ST4.2 x 40mm countersunk screw (#26) (with anchor (#09b) for tile)
For tub installations: the bottom bracket must be screwed down to the tub deck. Use anchor 3 with tile threshold
NOTE: Before you install the Stationary glass (#02), you need to take the Door Glass (#05) into the shower area and lean it against the wall. After the Stationary glass (#02) is installed, it may not be possible to easily get the door glass into the shower.
Always use padding to protect the DreamLine Enigma X Glass Shower Door and shower base surfaces.
NOTE: DO NOT attach the handle to the door glass until instructed to do so.
Do Not attempt to lift the door glass with the handle as this may result in damage to the glass and/or serious personal injury. Use a professional grade glass suction cup and an assistant.
Re-position the Stationary glass (#02) and Upper Guide rail (#03) onto the threshold and fasten both sleeves of the Guide rail brackets (#08) to the brackets on the walls. Tighten the set screws on the Guide rail brackets (#08) to secure the Upper guide rail (#03). Position the bracket set screws so that they are accessible from the top and bottom. (Fig 15.2 & 15.3)
Assemble the Wall bracket (#19) at the bottom corner of
the Stationary glass (#02). Use the clear vinyl gasket 2
between the glass and the metal parts to avoid contact with the glass, then tighten the bolt with the supplied allen wrench.
See Fig 15 for details
TIP: Adjust the installed Upper Guide rail (#03) to level as necessary using the Guide rail brackets (#08) first and then the Glass brackets (#07). Start adjustments from the door end.
Panel end Door end Glass bracket Guide Rail Bracket
(Right hand door installation shown as example)
NOTE: Use the Guide Rail Bracket (#08) set screws to adjust the Guide Rail (#03) for level.
Loosen the top set screw and tighten the bottom set screw to lower the rail.
Loosen the bottom set screw and tighten the top set screw to raise the rail.
Attach the Guide block face plate to the installed Guide Block (#12) and tighten the set screw with the supplied allen wrench. Use the supplied Decorative caps to cover the screw holes.
See Fig 16 for details
If installing the 72” model, attach the Small 1 2 stationary panel glass (#23) to the Upper Guide Rail (#03) using the Small Stationary Glass Bracket (#21).
Attach the face plate to the Wall Bracket (#19).
See Fig 17 for details
Note: Use a razor knife to trim the Anti-water strip (#14) at the top to avoid interfering with the Roller guards (#20).
Attach the Guide block face plate to the installed Guide Block (#22) and tighten the set screw with the supplied allen wrench. Make sure that the clear gaskets are in place to protect the glass. Use the supplied Decorative caps to cover the screw holes.
See Fig 18 for details
18a. For the 48”or 60“ model size: Measure the distance from the edge of the Guide block (#12) to the wall .This distance will be “X”.
Cut the Anti-splash threshold (#15) to the size of: X” + 3/8”.
18b. For the 72” model size: Measure the distance between the edge of the Guide block (#12) to the Small Stationary Glass bottom bracket (#22) .This distance will be “L”.
Cut the Anti-splash threshold (#15) to the size of: L” + 3/4”.for 48”or 60“ for 72” model
Apply silicone to the bottom of the Anti-Splash Threshold 1 2
(#15.) Remove the guide block face plate, Insert one end of the
Anti-splash threshold (#15) fully into the Guide block (#12)
and replace the guide block face plate.
Align the Anti-splash threshold (#15) parallel with the front edge of the shower base or threshold.
Cover the other end of the Anti-splash threshold (#15) with the
Threshold cap (#16) against the wall.
See Fig 20 for details
For the 72” model: Remove the face plate from the Small Stationary Glass bottom bracket (#22) and insert the Anti-splash threshold (#15). Replace the guide block face plate.
See Fig 20.5* for details
Temporarily secure the Anti-Splash Threshold (#15) to the threshold with several pieces of painter’s tape to hold it in position tight to the threshold until the silicone fully cures.
3 only use cap when installing up to a wall for the DreamLine Enigma X Glass Shower Door 48” & 60” model
NOTE: Do not attach the handle to the door glass until instructed to do so. Do not attempt to lift the door glass with the handle as this may result in damage to the glass and/or serious personal injury.
Attach the two Rollers (#04) to the Door Glass (#05) with the wheels facing outside of the shower. Align the safety set screw towards the top for easier access (See Fig 22.1, Fig 23 & page 23 for details).
Suspend the door by hanging the Rollers (#04) onto the Upper guide rail (#03) and carefully sliding the bottom edge of the enigma x glass shower door (#05) into the groove of the Guide block (#12). If necessary, adjust the disks on both Rollers (#04) to ensure that the bottom edge of the Door Glass (#05) does not touch the bottom of the Guide block (#12) (see details on page 23).
See Fig 22 & 24 for details
TIP: Use a 3/16” shim the wheels are the same as the beneath the door glass when disks in the Glass brackets and adjusting the level of the sliding glass shower door.
The adjustment disks can be rotated to adjust the door. To create a seal without to make contact with the the wall. See detailed guide block.
Mount the two Roller guards (#20) onto the door to secure the door to the Upper guide rail (#03) leaving a 1/16” gap between the roller guards and the guide rail
Note: The Safety set screw on the wheel MUST BE tightened after installation to prevent the large bolt from coming loose. See details on page 23.
Press the Anti-water strip (#14) onto the vertical edge of the Stationary glass (#02) and the Door Glass (#05). Also press the Bumper strip (#13) onto the vertical edge of the Door Glass (#05) (Fig 25.2).
For the 72” model: Attach Anti-water strip (#14) to the edge of door the Small Stationary Glass (#23). The Bumper strip (#13) is not necessary with the 72” model (Fig 25.3*).
Mount the Handle (#06) to the sliding glass shower door (#05).
See Fig 25 for details
(Right hand door installation shown as example)
Note: Use a razor knife to trim the Anti-water strip (#14) at the top to avoid interfering with the Roller guards (#20).
Position the Door Stoppers (#01) and screw them tightly to the Upper Guide Rail (#03).
NOTE: The Door stoppers (#01) must be positioned correctly to prevent the handle from contacting the Stationary glass (#02)
(48”, 60” & 72“ models) and to stop the Sliding Glass shower Door (#05) in a position that allows the bumper strip to create a seal with the wall, but does not allow the door glass to bang into the wall during normal operation (48”& 60” models).
See Fig 26a & 26b for details
DreamLine Enigma X Glass Shower Door Stopper Installation:
Remove the set screw (Be sure to cover the shower drain to prevent loss)
Slide the Door Stopper (#01) onto the Upper Guide Rail (#03)
Align with stopper hole (stationary panel side only)
Apply Thread Lock Adhesive (#26) to the set screw threads
Tighten screw into the stopper hole (stationary panel side only)
Correctly position and tighten the set screw into the stopper (door side)
See Fig. 26b for details
Note: If installing the 72” model glass shower door, position the door-side stopper so that the handle cannot make contact with the small inline panel glass when the door is in the closed position.
(ENIGMA-X Right hand glass shower door installation shown as example) Fig 26b
72” model with Right hand door installation
Apply a good quality mildew-resistant silicone along the interior perimeter where the glass meets the wall and threshold and also along the Anti-Splash Threshold (#15).
Please allow 24 hours for the silicone to fully cure before using the shower.
Enigma Roller adjustment procedure for DreamLine Enigma X Glass Shower Door
To achieve minimal clearance beneath the door glass without making contact with the bottom guide block and creating a good seal with the wall.
Have at least two 3/16” shims or wedge shims (to maintain space beneath the door glass) and an assistant available to help with this procedure.
You should adjust only one wheel at a time and you may need to perform these steps more than once to get the desired results.
Caution: The DreamLine Enigma X Glass Shower Door is very heavy and may require two people to safely accomplish these steps.
First, loosen and lower either the Roller Guards (Enigma-X) or Bottom Rollers (Enigma) to allow you enough room to adjust the upper rollers. (If you have not installed these yet, you will be instructed to in step #7 after these adjustments are made)
Loosen the safety set screw on the roller. (See note 2 below)
Loosen the big bolt just enough so that you can rotate the adjustment disk. (See note 3 below)
Rotate the adjustment disk to raise or lower the door slightly with help from an assistant. You can use a small tool (like an allen wrench) to aid in turning this disk by inserting it into the small hole on the edge of the adjustment disk. (see note 4 & 4a below)
While holding the adjustment disk in place, retighten the big bolt. Use a shim or have an assistant hold the door glass in place while you retighten the big bolt.
Re-tighten the safety set screw to hold the big bolt in place (see note 5). Test the operation of the door.
For the Enigma-X:Reposition the rollerguards approximately 1/16” beneath the guide rail and retighten. For the DreamLine Enigma Glass Shower Door: adjust the lower rollers to make contact with the rail in the same manner as the upper rollers. During installation onto the glass, 3
Loosen this safety set screw ﬁrst. This holds the big bolt in place and will must be re-tightened after roller is adjusted. Position this set screw at the top for easier access. It is extremely important that the safety set screw is re-tightened to secure the big bolt. rotate this disk so that the safety set screw is at the top for easier access.
The bushing that goes through the glass is elliptical and allows you to raise or lower the glass when you rotate the adjustment disk.
Once you have loosened the set screw, you will be able to loosen this big bolt just enough to allow you to rotate the adjustment disk.
This is the adjustment disk. Once the big bolt is loosened, rotate this disk to raise or lower the door glass slightly. Use caution so that the door glass does not make contact with the guide block.
Insert a small tool (like an allen wrench) into this hole to help rotate this adjustment disk and also to hold the disk in place when you retighten the big bolt.
DreamLine Product Maintenance Suggestions For the Enigma X Glass Shower Door
BASES and BACKWALLS:
To ensure long lasting life for your acrylic back walls: wipe them off after each use with a soft cloth. To clean the acrylic back walls use non-abrasive sprays or cream based cleaners.
Avoid the use of aerosol spray cleaners. Never use abrasive cleansers, metal brushes or scrapers that could scratch or dull the surface.
To ensure long lasting life for your DreamLine Enigma Glass Shower Door: wipe them off after each use with a soft cloth. Rinse and wipe off the glass using either a soft cloth or a squeegee to prevent soap buildup and water spots (Hard water can etch the surface of the glass over time if left to dry).
To prevent scratching the surface: never use abrasive cleaners or cleaning products that contain scouring agents. Never use bristle brushes or abrasive sponges that may scratch the surface.
To ensure a long lasting finish: wipe off the metal parts after each use with a soft cloth. Do not use abrasive cleaners or cleaning products containing ammonia, bleach or acid.
If accidentally used, rinse the surface as soon as possible to prevent damage to the finish (peeling or corrosion). After cleaning the polished finishes, rinse thoroughly and wipe dry with soft cloth.
Clean stainless steel surfaces at least once a week. When applying stainless steel cleaner or polish to stainless steel hardware, work with (not across) the grain. Never use an abrasive sponge or cloth, steel wool or wired brush as these may permanently scratch the surfaces.
FAX: 866-857-3638 DREAMLINE.COM
For more information on DreamLine® Custom Glass Shower Door and Enclosures feel free to visit DreamLine.com
STAMP YOUR STYLE ON YOUR STORAGE This shabby chic galvanized tin caddy has 4 tin containers and a wooden carry handle. The 4 tin boxes are each 10x10cm making them the perfect size for sorting small items such as cutlery, stationery, art supplies, make up, utensils, cleaning items, etc.
VINTAGE STYLE, MODERN STRENGTH Designed with a vintage farmhouse look, this Kenley caddy is strong and sturdy. The steel frame and wooden handles provide a tough structure which supports the 4 removable caddies. All the caddies have a card slot to label them. The whole caddy is about 23x23x14cm.
TAKE IT WHEREVER YOU NEED IT Strong wooden handles make it easy for kids or adults to carry the Kenley tin caddy around. Use it to take spices and sauces out to the BBQ, let kids take their art supplies to the table themselves or plant it with herbs and move them back and forth from a sunny windowsill to the desk.
CHANGES AS YOU NEED IT TO Stay organized all year round by repurposing your Kenley tin caddy each season. Perhaps in summer it’ll live by the door, holding sunglasses and sun cream while in winter it might be in the kitchen, full of your favourite teas or hot chocolate making supplies.
KEEP YOUR HOUSE TIDY Making tidying simple and it’s more likely to get done. The Kenley tin caddy corrals small items so you only have one thing to take out or put away. It’s a great way to deal with items you use every day but don’t want to leave out, such as cutlery and condiments or make up and cleansers.
Cute Egg Storage Farmhouse Style
EGG STORAGE RACK – Brighten Up Your Kitchen With This Fantastic Novelty Egg Holder. Store Your Eggs In A Neat And Uniform Fashion With This Shabby Chic Egg Box.
FREE STANDING OR WALL MOUNTED – You Can Place This Novelty Egg Box Anywhere Around Your Kitchen As This Fantastic Item Can Be Free Standing Around Your Kitchen Work Surfaces Or Wall Mounted Next To Your Cooker For Easy Access, Either Way This Is The Egg Storage Box For you.
CAPACITY – This Essential Kitchen Egg Basket Has 2 Tiers Each Holding 6 Eggs Which Gives An Overall Capacity Of 12 Eggs.
MATERIAL – These Fantastic Kitchen Egg Storage Racks Are Made From Lightweight Hard Wearing Natural Wood And Can Be Easily Painted If You Require To Fit Into Your Kitchen Colour Scheme. Will Last For Many Years To Come.
DIMENSIONS – These Novelty Wooden Egg Storage Boxes Measure Approx H: 25cm x W: 18cm x D: 12cm
European Farmhouse Design Wrought Iron Hardware @ Top Home Design
European Farmhouse Design Wrought Iron Pendant Lights @ Top Home Design
The Farmhouse Style Wrought Iron Pendant Lights are suitable for interior spaces and made of durable & scratch resistant high-quality cast iron. The chain is easily adjustable. So changing the length of the Chain according to your preferences and design is a breeze. Read More…
European Farmhouse Design Furniture
Please Note That Some of those Products may not ship into the USA or other Countries.
Feel free to contact us so we can help you to find alternative products.
You’ll Love the 2018 Fall Décor Wooden Harvest Welcome Signs. Those are lightweight MDF signs. That feature colorful slats printed with short phrases that reference the season. And a lovely addition to your autumn decoration!
The Approximate Sign Dimensions are: 10.5 Inches x 11.5-Inches And each of the signs also has an attached piece of nylon twine to hang it on.
2018 Fall Décor Wooden Harvest Welcome Signs Collection are assorted among the 2 styles shown
You should order soon, because we only ship the Seasonal Products While Supplies Last. Further this will guarantee that you receive the Free Decorative Pumpkin Clips, 3-Ct. Packs with your order placed.
This products are only available through ML Warehouse whom is the only Authorized Seller for this Listing.
Order your 2018 Fall Décor Wooden Harvest Welcome Signs Collection Today
And receive the 4 illustrated clips for free as well.
Price: [price_with_discount] (as of [price_update_date] – Details)
An entire house built in 21 days for cancer research
The home will be auctioned off on the 21 of October 2018 to raise much-need funds for childhood cancer research. For more info follow the link at the end of this article.
Sep 25, 2018 9:02pm
Building a home from scratch can take months, even years, of planning, designing, labor, and styling, but not when you have a whole community helping you.
To mark International Childhood Cancer Awareness Month, the Children’s Cancer Institute, McDonald Jones Homes, McCloy Group and Austral Bricks have joined forces to build a brand-new home in just 21 days, to be auctioned off to raise much-need funds for childhood cancer research.
To make this possible, everything has been generously donated from a suite of corporate partners and community groups, including the land, all materials, labor and furnishings.
This monumental project marks the fourth Build for a Cure, with the initiative raising over $2 million to date.
“The Children’s Cancer Institute exists purely to put an end to childhood cancer.
950 Australian children are diagnosed with cancer every year .with 50 of those children hailing from the Hunter Region in spite of significant advances in survival rates still 3 children are dying from cancer each week. Alone in Australia, we won’t stop until this number is zero.
Our goal is to save the lives of all children with cancer and improve their long-term health through research,” says Professor Michelle Haber AM, Executive Director of the Children’s Cancer Institute.
The Block’s Scotty Cam is an ambassador for Build for a Cure and even he has been blown away by the hard work and sheer speed of the build.
“It’s not every day you see an entire house built in just 21 days. It’s remarkable to see the hundreds of volunteers that work together to make this happen.
On day one of the build we start with just a slab and by sunset all of the framework is up and roof truss on,” Cam said.
And Scotty isn’t the only familiar Block-face involved with this inspiring project. Maxine and Karstan, who appeared on The Block: Glasshouse series, are also ambassadors for Build for a Cure and have been actively involved with the design of the home.
“We were approached by the Children’s Cancer Institute and said YES straight away,” says Maxine and Karstan, when asked how they became involved in the project. “This project is being supported by our local community and we are extremely passionate about cancer research and more importantly curing cancer,” they added.
The Home Built For Children’s Cancer Research
The Build for a Cure house combines luxe style with organic natural materials to create a modern, on-trend home that is still warm and inviting.
“Everything that has been selected is functional and practical for a family home. Whoever buys or visits this home will feel relaxed and comfortable thanks to the interior’s luxe-coastal flair. A lot of thought has gone into every space,” says Maxine and Karstan proudly.
“The look is a modern take on luxury interiors, combing timeless, classic style with the most beautiful materials and sophisticated detailing,”
says Sophie Devos, MyChoice Studio Manager for the Hunter Region, who has also been heavily involved in the design.
The home has been designed for year-round comfort with a home theatre for winter nights-in and an inviting alfresco cabana for summer entertaining.
Freedom put their hand up to furnish and style the home with family-friendly yet luxurious pieces that are bound to appeal to a wide range of buyers.
“We’ve incorporated a combination of texture and sumptuous plush luxe products, with velvet’s, leather and linen, using layers to create a cosy and relaxed feeling,” says Jill Clements, Senior Interior Designer NSW for Freedom Furniture.
“The main colors we have used are charcoal, naturals and tan. We’ve used this color combination because this is bang on trend,” adds Jill.
This special home will be auctioned on the 21st of October, with all proceeds from the sale going directly to fund Children’s Cancer Institute’s vital research.
Don’t Forget to check your windows and doors on your free fall home maintenance!
Doing a few chores around the house this month can save homeowners major expense in the spring, according to Rick Felton, President of Home-service Club of Canada.
First of all, let me explain as to why we are a big fan of PM and why we offer this to our clients.
“By doing a little preventative maintenance (PM) now. You can prevent minor problems from escalating into a major headache in the spring,” Felton said. “Minor repairs done now can prevent air and moisture penetration. And from attacking the structural integrity of your home down the road,” he added. Cleaning the eavestroughs in the fall, for example, can prevent ice damming in the winter. Where moisture is forced up under the roof’s shingles during winter’s freeze-thaw cycles. “Our roofing contractors are always busy in the spring. Fixing damage and leaks that have occurred because of ice damming,” Felton added.
Our Fall Home Maintenance Checklist suggests the following tasks:
The Fall Home Maintenance Checklist :
Clean eavestroughs after the last leaves have fallen. Run a garden hose and check that they are draining properly. And that downspouts are operating and directed away from the home’s foundation walls. Check for leaking or damaged gutters, downspouts and hangers. Remove rust and patch the gutters with roofing cement. Caulk leaking seams and make sure pop rivets are secure.
Check the roof for trouble signs such as broken or missing shingles. Look out for cracked, buckling or curling shingles. Or bare spots where the granular coating has worn off. Check flashing around vents, skylights, and chimneys. Look for pieces that have peeled back and for cracked caulking that could allow moisture penetration.
Have the chimney cleaned and check the exterior structure for worn flashing, loose bricks or crumbling mortar.
Have your furnace cleaned, inspected and safety checked (local cost about $60). Depending on the system, you will need to have the furnace vacuumed, the filter changed and the pilot checked.
Check for blockage of attic louvers by wasp’s nests and put sheet metal, wire screen or wood over any openings, including under the eaves, to prevent animals from nesting.
Remove and store your window air conditioner. Make sure to clean the coils and filters and cover loosely for the winter. If you are leaving the air conditioner in the window, put a weatherproof cover over it to protect it during the winter.
Check doors and windows for proper caulking and weatherstripping. Do the draft test: hold a lit candle and run it along the seams of doors and windows. A flickering flame means your heating dollars are going out the window. Check the bottoms of doors for a snug threshold seal or door sweep.
Make sure your fireplace is in safe working order. Check that the damper opens and closes smoothly and fits properly to prevent heat loss. Check inside the fireplace to make sure no bricks are loose or broken. If your fireplace is smoking excessively, check the chimney for fallen bricks. Installing a chimney cap can cure a smoking fireplace by improving the draft.
Drain exterior water lines, hose bibs, sprinklers, and pool equipment before the first major freeze. Caulk around pipes where they enter the house.
The Garden and Patio or Deck Fall Home Maintenance Checklist :
.Clean your lawnmower and other garden tools before storing. Give all the metal parts of your tools a wipe with an oiled rag to prevent rusting. Drain the fuel from gas-powered machines and run the engine until the lines are clear. Drain the oil and replace it. Clean caked-on grass and debris.
Clean your barbecue and store it in a protected place for the winter. Never store propane tanks indoors.
Clean patio furniture and store, loosely covered, in a dry place.
Wash windows to let in the maximum heat and light during cold winter days. Doing your fall chores can make your life easier come spring when you would rather be fishing than fixing winter damage.
Best Backyard Decks – Construction For Outdoor Living
What is the best type of deck design?
Well, only you can determine that. First, let me outline what different design options we currently offer.
Decks are such a popular asset to entertain your friends or family. There are countless options and designs. As well as different materials and we just try to show you a few possibilities. In most deck construction the variation in the materials is mostly in the design and finish.
The foundation for the below-described design is always built out of presser treated lumber.
A master bath remodel can cost you $10,000 & more. Our bath remodeling ideas help you to cut the total cost to $5000 or less. Dive into 😎 my proven step-by-step bathroom remodeling guide. And find highest ROI & how to cut costs in your own bathroom remodeling project.
Congratulations you completed your Step 1 the Remodeling Process and are now ready to dive into Step 2 our step-by-step bathroom remodeling guide. If you landed here without working your way through the process I strongly recommend that you go there before you start unpacking your tools.
How can I say that? Well let me introduce myself, I am Juergen Kuhlmann,(don’t worry about pronouncing it… lol) And I am the Owner and Operator of Kuhlmann & Son Construction. 😎
Further I am a German Master Craftsman that founded the company back in 2000 and have been involved in countless remodeling and historical renovation projects.
Anyway, in my bathroom remodeling guide you will find the collection of task that are commonly take place trough out bathroom renovations and complete remodels.
Further I will share with you professional or practical bathroom makeover tips & tricks.
To you this article is the hub to all bathroom remodeling How-To’s & Tutorials. It is also a growing project that will be continued till I covered every possible task. That I include even in our smallestresidential bathroom make over.
Therefor I suggest that you either subscribe to get my updates or swing by to find new completed chapters. Further I would like to ask you, to leave a comment for any tips or questions below the articles. So that I can address those and share the additional information with other readers at the same time
With all that being said…
Let’s get started!
Since we created your budget and your project scope during Step1. We are now ready to make a few final adjustments if necessary.
Let me show you the list of tasks that are common during our bath renovations & bathroom remodeling project. You will notice that at least some if not all are in the from you developed ProjectScope as well. Also if you have not done this download your free Excel-Bathroom-Remodeling Cost-Calculator Form
According to a NARI Survey Americans spent $340 billion on all home improvement projects in 2017.
Bathroom Updates are the third in line of most chosen & completed home improvement projects during 2017.
And Full Kitchen renovations as well as Kitchen Upgrades claim the places one and two on that same statistic.
Who completed the remodeling work?
· 32% of the owners did the project themselves.
· 32% percent hired a professional for the job.
· 21% hired the labor but purchased the materials.
· 14% contributed some do-it-yourself (DIY) labor.
This means that 46% of home owners are actively involved in their remodeling project.
And Here It Gets Interesting … For You!
What is the average cost of a master bathroom remodel?
According to NARI The National Average was $30,000 in 2017
What is the average cost of a adding a bathroom?
With room addition the national average was $60,000 in 2017
What Is average cost of bathroom remodel per square foot?
According to my numbers there are 3 different bathroom upgrades.
Small Bathroom Update – will cost about $125 / SF
Medium Grade update – will cost about $200 / SF
High End Update – can cost $250/SF and more.
As result a small bath update (8′ x 10′) can be as low as $10,000
And if you choose the high end version the same room can cost you more than $20,000
How much of my money can I recoup (ROI)?
On average ONLY up to 50% of the initial investment can be recouped!
You can find ROI information on other home improvement projects. As well as answers on most common question on the subject under Remodeling FAQ
The numbers also show that the closing rate to sell property rose by 6% if the bathroom was recently updated. And according to Realtors statement about 18% of realtor recommend to their clients to update the kitchen or bathroom before listing it
How much of a bathroom remodel is for labor?
Labor Charges ranged in 2017 from 30% to 60% depending on task.
And the Plumbing and Electrician Costs are in the upper percentage.
Why does this matter and what does this mean to you?
That means to you that you should do all you can yourself. What brings me to the next point…
The following Infograph breaks down the cost of common updates during Bathroom Remodeling.
This Infograph above can help to spot potential savings. I explain in a moment… so keep reading.
How To Remodel A Bathroom On A budget & Save Money?
As you probably already know, bath remodel can add a considerable amount of value and appeal to a home.
However, the initial investment of $30,000 for a total makeover or $60,000 for an additional bathroom is not always in everybody’s budget.
On the other hand, the bathroom is one of the main rooms potential buyers contemplate when deciding whether or not to make a purchase.
So you probably agree with me, that if a bath remodel is needed, it definitely is a wise investment in more ways than one.
As we can conclude from the statistics above
1. The return on the initial investment (ROI ) can be up to 50% when the right choices are made.(because the property value increases)
2. And about half the cost of most remodeling projects is for the labor.
So anything you can do yourself. Meaning without any professional help is money in your pocket.
Is it worth my time to do the work myself?
In the “Cost for Bathroom Updates During Remodeling ” Infograph above, you can find potential savings options.
Look at the tasks and simply figure about half the cost is for labor.
So, If you are skilled enough to complete the task, that could be money in your piggy bank.
On the other hand, you need to consider what your regular income is and how much time you can invest into the remodeling task.
And as we already discussed during the remodeling process it will also depend greatly on your experience and skills.
For example: You get an average project cost estimate for a turn key job of $20,000. Say half of it (50%) will be labor charges. That is $10,000.
If you complete only half of the work yourself. You can save $5,000 on the same bathroom project.
Now, based on average time investment needed to overhaul a midsize bath. You will spend about 100 hours to complete the work. So a quick calculation $5,000 : 100 = $50/hr if you are done in time. If it takes longer you make less.
Sp decide for yourself if it’s worth $50/hour. And if you earn much more than that, it is probably not.
However, in most cases, the remodeling labor intensity is very high.
And your saving can actually be greater.
Another important factor is the time frame (project schedule). If this is your only bathroom you would want to complete this project as quick as possible. The same holds true if you want to rent or sell your property.
Therefore striking a balance between the project duration as well as the required skills can be very challenging.
And all those factors seam clearly in favor for hiring a professional remodeling contractor.
However, there are many project tasks that require more time and less highly skilled labor. Well guess what time is money and it will cost you in form of labor charges.
And it is exactly those tasks where a little help from your end is also well worth your time investment.
Below I will point out a few of those task so you better understand what I mean. And if you can complete those yourself, you will cushion your bath remodeling budget for the more elaborate and costly features.
Here are my favorite 6 cost saving bath remodel ideas.
Cost saving bath remodel ideas # 1 – Flooring
Skill Level: easy
Like in every construction /remodeling project we will start from the ground up.
Therefor my first suggestion is the flooring…. If you have old vinyl sheet flooring in your bath or some for 40 years old and outdated tile flooring here are some options.
Demo you can rip it out and start over fresh
Layover cover the old flooring up with some thing new
Paint it will get expensive on a good primer ($50/Gal) however it is possible on a small budget.
Bath Remodel Cost Savings Idea # 2 – Refinish Old Cabinetry
Skill Level: medium to high
When remodeling on a budget, consider cabinet refinishing or wood veneer laminates instead of replacement, especially if the bathroom cabinets are sound and in overall good condition.
Remodeling the cabinetry you have is far less expensive than buying new, and you will not require the help of a professional. Google information on installing wood veneer laminates and read my post on cabinet refinishing.
You will discover it really is not difficult to accomplish, even for an amateur. What a great cost saving bath remodeling idea. And the money you save will be well worth the time and effort. Maybe now you can afford the a new stone counter-top that could make such a significant difference.
Cabinet hardware is available in all price ranges, styles, themes, and colors. Amazingly, the look of old bathroom cabinetry can be significantly changed with the addition of new drawer and cabinet pulls.
This is a relatively low-cost alternative to change the appearance of you Vanity & bathroom cabinetry. Without investing in entirely replacing the old with brand new cabinets. And you probably already know, that you can find countless of stylish hardware options for cabinets.
And even if cabinet doors or drawers never had pull’s, they can be outfitted with brand new hardware and create a completely different look.
Knobs for drawer pulls are super easy to install. All you need is a straight edge (this can be a straight piece of lumber) and a pencil. as well as a drill with drill-bit a little big bigger then the knob screws.
1. You remove the drawer from your cabinet or vanity
2.Mark a pencil line from the bottom left to the top right corner (diagonal ) of your drawer front. As well as from the bottom right to the top left.
3.Where these lines cross is the center of your drawer front. This is where you drill your hole from the outside of the drawer.
4.Install the knobs and re-install the drawers.
That’s all there is to it…
This easy to do task makes it one of my favorite bath remodel cost saving ideas.
If you want to use handles (2 hole install) is gets a little more complicated.
You can save even more on cabinet hardware. When you for example replace the hardware of all your kitchen cabinetry, modern hardware can get expensive. If you are looking at door-handles. With price tags from $3 -$9.00 each. For a kitchen with 10, 15 or more floor-cabinets plus the wall – cabinetry.
This adds up fast. However, with a little luck you can find the same or at least something similar in look, at your local rehab store. And since someone donated those they will cost only Penny’s on the Dollar compared to you building supplier.
You can also buy them in bulk to reduce the cost as well.
Cost saving bath remodel ideas # 4 – Updating The Vanity Top & Sink
If your old bathtub is affecting the appearance and the overall value of your bathroom, consider investing in a custom bathtub liner instead of costly and messy professional bathtub and tile replacement.
Although this option is not cheap, it can still be less expensive than completely removing and replacing an existing bathtub and shower wall. The finished bathtub and shower unit will look fantastic, and no one will ever guess the original bathtub and shower wall are behind a liner. (think of Re-bath)
For smaller blemishes, you could hire a professional re-finisher That will sand out blemishes and touch up your tub’s paint. What really makes that bathtub of yours look like new again.
I have seen it done and even I was amassed by the outcome.
Custom build in Bathroom Vanities come in odd sizes. And it might be necessary to update a bathroom vanity or at least the tops.
Simply because you cant find a prefabricated replacement in form size or shape as needed..
We Custom Update Bathroom Vanity …. Cant find needed update for bathroom vanity bc of odd sizes?
That leaves 3 vanity update option that I explain step-by-step in this post.
Basically these three vanity updated option are:
Paint the existing tile in a different color
Layover with new tile
Replace the existing top and build a Vanity Top
To Update Bathroom Vanity As A DIY Projects Ranks # 4 On Our Bath Remodel Cost Savings Idea List!
And if you follow the instructions closely. You should be able to take your old 30’s style Vanity (looks most likely something like our before image).
To something similar to this from me recently updated vanity (after image)
We chose to create a Glass Top & Stainless Steel Center Piece
Vanity Update Option # 1 :
Painting it in a new color is obviously the easiest choice.
Skill Level: medium
And if you are okay with the existing tile structure it is the quickest and cheapest way to get a new look for your Vanity.
The steps a very simple as well
Clean up all tile with soapy water or bleach to remove any soap scum or residue
Sand surface with a fine wet & dry sandpaper (200 grit or better)
Clean all surface after sanding.
Primer with an oil base primer
Finish Paint with epoxy paint (suitable for tile) The paint is more expensive than good acrylic paint. However, it is developed for painting tile and therefor has better scratch resistance. I still would apply 2 coats of paint.
Here is more detailed info on how to replace a sink.
During a layover we basically ad a new tile layer on top of the existing one.
I recommend to replace it completely to have a fresh start. However that requires a little more time and skill.
Tile Adhesive – You should purchase a tile adhesive that is premixed and ready to be applied.
Notched Plastic Trowel to apply adhesive
Metal Transition for tile flooring (Aluminum Edge need enough for 2 pieces along the front edge of the vanity)
1/16 Tile Spacers
tile pencil (wax pencil) a sharpy will work as well
sandpaper or grinding disk
Step1 – Sand and clean the front lip / edge.
Next you need to install a board (ledger) and mount it flush with your existing front edge. It need to stick out enough to set your front edge tile on. Mark and cut front edge tile.
Simply set a tile on the ledger scribe the tile along the existing counter top and cut it. Repeat this till you cut enough pieces to cover the front. (You can get 4-6 strip out one 12″ ceramic tile).
Cut tile edge trim pieces to length.
The soft aluminum can be clipped with metal snips or use a miter saw to miter adjoining pieces.
Pro Tip: If you install the wood miter saw saw-blade backwards you can slowly cut a perfect edge.
Add some adhesive onto one strip and set it with the showing edge on the ledger. The grid like part should be submerged into glue and stuck to the old front tile.
Next you spread the glue (tile adhesive ) onto your prepared (cut) tile strips and stick them firmly against the vanity lip. use spacer to space them out evenly. Cut your last tile strip to length and install.
You can refer to the product instruction of the adhesive for dry-time before grout application. My stuff takes about 4 hours give or take.
Use a damp sponge or rag to clean up any extra glue. if grout lines are filled with glue. You can use a putty knife or any other slim tool to remove it.
If you don’t, you will have to cut it out before you can apply your grout.
I suggest to just let it sit for the rest of the day or through the night and continue your topside installation.
You should know that full pieces of tile will not fit all the time and in every course of tile. But how can you fit them before previous once are installed? Here I will explain to you how you mark tile to cut a perfect fit piece.
And without taking any measures.
After your initial cleanup follow these instructions :
Beginning in the left back corner start laying your tile (no adhesive used ) and spread them over your vanity top from the left to the right.
Use the small (1/16″) tile spacer and lay your tile tight against those. Chances are that you will not be able to fit a full tile into the right back corner or that there is a smaller strip missing.
For a perfect job you should try to center your tile and split the difference on each side. However if your tile is only slightly too large you can just cut one side. Nobody but you will ever know the difference.
How to mark the tile:
once you get to your last tile you simply lay it on top of the one next to it (to the left) And snug it up against the right wall. Now you take your marker and mark a line on the bottom tile along the edge of the top one. Remove the top right tile and make you a little x or some sort mark on the left one in the part of the left side besides your line. This is the piece you will need after you cut the tile.
Yes, that is the strip that will fit perfectly and when you actually install the tiles you just use a new full one in its place.
Your tile will fit easier if you use a tile vertical against the right hand wall and you start laying tiles against it. (Tile thickness makes a great spacer and the grout will fill this gab perfectly )
Most times walls are not fully square to each other. And You need to add one extra step to complete this vanity update option.
If you notice that your walls are much out of square ( your joints will stagger and do not line up)
Place a tile on the front edge of the right corner of your vanity. Take another tile and stack it vertical with the edge on top of the laid one. (like you where tiling a wall) Hold the vertical tile firmly against the left wall and scribe the bottom tile with your marker.
When you remove the vertical tile you see your cut line that transfers the wall angle onto your tile. Cut the tile. Double check if the angle is good and if so scribe another tile for each needed row (tile rows from back wall to front edge of vanity) once marked you can cut all those and start placing the tiles on your vanity top.
Note this will stagger your tile. And if you want to lay them in a grid you need to lay them on your top and mark the right edge so they will line up after you cut those.
Cutting the tile for a round sink
The tile that needs to be clipped in your Sink location is most times supposed to be round. When your till extends over your sink location mark it from the back by inscribing along the edge of your existing vanity top.
On your saw you turn your tile upside down so you can see your mark.
Make multiple cuts from the to remove tile edge to your mark (looks like a come or rake) lay your tile onto a flat surface with the tile strips that need to be removed hanging over the edge,
Tap the strips with your tile snips or hammer to break them of. this will create the round shape that you need. If some do not break where you want to use the tile snips and make the adjustments.
Pro Tip: Once all tile laid in place I suggest to mark them in the order they should be installed.
That would be from left back to right front. Use painters tape and write the numbers on them 1-2-3 and so on.and stack them out of the way.
By doing this, you will have no problem finding the right tile for the right spot.
Set your previously cut tile into the tile adhesive bed and align it with the yesterday installed front edge tile. You may find that you need to apply a little more adhesive on the front edge to ensure good tile bond.
Remember to use the spacers for your grout lines and try to keep those lines even and clean of adhesive. Wipe of all excess glue with a wet sponge & Soapy water (Dish Detergent works well)
Give all the tile adequate tome to dry and set. Then you can proceed to the final step and grout the tile.
I thought some of you would opt for prefabricated Vanity tops. Therefor I included the How to video above.
Pro Tip: “Grout ” I usually use two component to install grout.
1. Is the regular grout that I mix with a sealer instead of water. Improves stain blocking of grout and reduces mildew /fungus issues.
2.For the edges I use the matching color acrylic-grout that comes in tubes like silicone.
This material will stay elastic what reduces cracking of the grout lines in the corners.
I use this combination for any type of tile installation regardless if I tile shower walls or flooring. And I never had a complaint.
Vanity Update Option # 3: New Installation
Sometimes the Tile overlay is not a good vanity update option.
If this is the case for you it is not that difficult to remove the old top and replace it.
Sometimes you can remove it even in one single piece
Either way once you removed the old top you should cut your new 3/4″ Plywood to fit, but do not permanently install it just yet.
First you need to layout your design for the sink (either on center. or of center) and cut your hole according to the template that came with your sink.
Should you decide to reuse your old sink. You can use it as template.
Simply Set the sink upside down on your new top sheet and scribe with a pencil or marker the contour on your sheeting.
Next use a spacer like a 3/4″ piece of wood or a compass to draw the sink shape smaller inside your marked area. Because the hole needs to be smaller to carry the sink.
You could just mark about 1/2″ to a 3/4 Inch inwards from the outside sink line. Connect the points and use a Jigsaw to cut out for the sink
From here on out there are 2 install options for your tile.
Use a flex-glue and install directly
Install hardy Backer Sheeting (cement board)
Either one will work, however for warranty reasons I prefer option b and the 1/4 Inch thick cement board is not going to break the bank . The required screws might but not the board.
Once you installed your sheeting. You are ready to install the tile. And you use the same method as above, in the overlay section.
After all your tile is installed, grouted and sealed.
You can turn to installing your sink and faucet to complete your Bathroom Vanity.
One last thing:
If you noticed that the shutoff valves are very hard to turn, or even leak after you turned the water off.
You should consider to replace those as well. It will not take but a few minutes replace those. Plus it’s the perfect timing and it is easy to do ones the Old Vanity-Top is removed.
Remodeling FAQs Of 2017 That Should Matter To You!
In am often asked about our remodeling statistics and what we do with our survey results. Here is a prime example right in our FAQs section.
Remodeling FAQs & Statistics can be confusing & miss leading. Here I share insider info & survey results based on over 2,031 responses.
So you can easily find, what really matters to you!
We want to give consumers only the information that matters to them in our FAQs section.
The National Association of the Remodeling Industry (NARI) e-mailed a remodeling project survey to a random sample of 74,357 members.
The results are based on 2,031 received responses.
The survey had an adjusted response rate of 2.7%.
Respondent’s were asked to take the following into consideration:
Based on a survey from the National Association of the Remodeling Industry, we have included the median cost of each professional remodeling project. Generally, assume a 2,450 sq. ft. home based on U.S. Census data.
Have you recently, made the decision to remodel your bathroom or kitchen? Whether you would like to remodel every inch of your bathroom or just a small portion of it, you will need to buy supplies. The supplies needed will all depend on the remodeling project you need to complete. For instance, if you are looking to have your bathtub replaced, you will need to order a new bathtub. Whether you need a bathtub, new flooring, or a new kitchen island. Have you decided where you would like to shop?.
If you are like many other homeowners, you may be wondering whether or not you should buy your remodeling supplies online. However,
Are you sure that you are getting the best bang for your buck?
In this post I will show you How You Can Save The Most Cash While Shopping For Remodel Supplies. Further I will tell you about some great sources for cheap and good remodeling supplies.
And at the end of this post you can find a few tips on how and where I have purchased got new remodeling supplies with outstanding savings.
I.Bathroom Remodeling Supplies
As previously mentioned, what remodeling supplies are needed will all depend on the type of remodeling that you are doing. The supplies that you will need will also help to determine whether or not you should buy your supplies online.
Of course, it is always possible to do, but you may find it costly. Depending on where you would be ordering your new bathtub from, it may need to travel across the country. If that is the case, you may find the cost of shipping or delivery to be quite expensive. In fact, you may also find it too much to afford.
In all honesty, the cost of shipping is really the only downside to purchasing your remodeling supplies online.
As a matter of fact there is literally, an unlimited number of benefits to purchasing your remodeling supplies online.
One of those benefits is the amount of time that it will take you to do your shopping.
Online, you could easily find thousands of different bathtubs available for sale. If you find a bathtub or any other bathroom fixture that you need. You could purchase it without even having to leave your home. So you can also save yourself a fairly large amount of time by shopping online.
If you are shopping on a budget, it is best to look for online retailers that offer shipping discounts.
Another way to rack up some additional savings is to purchase your bathroom remodeling materials, supplies, and fixtures through the online retailer outlets. Where you can refurbished and fully warranted products.
Besides online shopping at suppliers like our shopyou can find real bargains at ebay or even on Facebook Yard-sale Groups.
However, is online shopping for remodeling supplies the best option?
To be honest, Not all the time… Let me explain.
Your Local Building supplier can be a great source for bargain as well. Study sales flyer or use coupons. And if you already there browse the sales floor and checkout the returned or discounted products. I myself saved me thousands of dollars through the years by just doing that.
Welcome to my Step-by-Step Guide on painting a room as beginners plus professional paint tips & tricks to enable you to get easier & better results.
Everybody can paint a room but to create a professional result it takes more effort and know-how. Here are a few small tricks, what will make the difference between a paint job and a great professional paint job.
In this article I will explain to you step-by-step how you can create a professional looking paint job on your own. I will also share with you some professional paint tips & tricks to enable you to get easier and better results.
In this article You will be able to find answers on the following questions:
Further I will Give Professional Paint Tips to enable you to create a professional paint job yourself.
We have lot’s to cover so lets jump right in ….
What are the different types of paint’s for?
While some of the following statements may worldwide apply. I want to make clear that I am here referring to American Paint Products.
Oil-Base versus Water-Base
As you probably know the main characteristics between those two types of paint is the solvent or base the color is mixed in. Like the title says on is based on oil and the other is mixed with water.
What you maybe not know is that Oil-Base-Paint is been discontinued for environmental reasons. Oil-Paint contains lead particles and since lead is a suspected to be a cancer initiator the manufacturing of Oil-base-Paint was discontinued in the USA.
And in case you are wondering why there is still oil-base primer.
I was told (I can’t confirm this) that the manufacturer of oil base paints are paying a environmental fine for each gallon produced. And developments are working hard on a environmental friendly alternative.
You may also not know that oil-based-paint does not have a Mildew Inhibitor in it. A Mildew Inhibitor is a substance that will prevent mold. That is one reason why you should always finish paint your walls after you applied a stain blocker even if you think the color looks good.
This becomes even more important when painting damp areas like kitchens, bathrooms and laundry areas.
As to keep it simple a Primer is like its name implied a first (prime) coat of paint.
There are many different type of primer widely available. Therefore I will focus only on the ones that I commonly use during my paint projects.
The basic purpose of all primer is to seal the pores of a surface to prevent the soaking up of paint. As well as an improved paint adhesion to the painted surface. Further they will improve a more uniform look.
PVA Primer is used on new installations of Drywall (Gypsum). This Sheetrock Primer is a cheap way to seal of the paper layer and mud seams. ($30/5Gal)
Good Stain Blocker to hide Grease spots and similar.
is available as water and oil base.
Comes in 1 and 5 gal
More expensive than competitors
Hard to sand out
Lower price/ gal
Can be used for any type of finish coat (oil and latex)
Only in 1 gal paint cans available
Medium stain blocking
I prefer to use the oil base Zinsser Primer from Rust-oleum, because of its price and the fact it will work with any finish coat. Also when I use Kilz to hide spots I always use the oil-base type
Professional Paint Tip:
As you paint-store clerk to tint (ad color) to your primer and to keep it just a tad lighter than your finish paint. This will improve to cover up previous paint jobs.
Regardless if you are using Lowe’s Valspar or Home Depot’s Bear even if you go for Sherwin Williams.
All of those paints have a few things in common and really only differ from each other in their content recipes.
However, there are some differences to find in finish paint.
Exterior Latex Paint vs Interior Latex Paint:
For one we have Interior and Exterior Grade Latex. Even though every Brand keeps their ingredients a secret. I know enough organic chemistry to be able to tell you that much.
Exterior Latex probably has a higher latex content per gallon than the Interior Version. Also I would expect that the Interior Latex has less if any UV-stabilizer in it. And the mildew inhibitor is probably lower in an interior latex as well.
Further out of my experience I can say that the amount of Latex / Gal increases with a higher priced paint.
I myself use only top of the line paint’s for all my exterior painting projects. Because it has greater latex content keeps the paint flexible. And therefore prevents it from cracking. As a result the paint-job will hold up longer.
You may also want to note that you can use exterior latex inside as well.
I have done this many times in small and poorly ventilated bathrooms.
However you should not use interior latex for painting the exterior.
Unless you are planning on re-painting it soon. Because this paint job will not last very long.
Further we have Acrylic Paint
Acrylic paint is also a latex paint however it also contains Acrylic. Acrylic has a higher scratch resistance in comparison to regular Latex.
And is therefore mostly used for trim, doors, and cabinetry.
Yes there is always a cheaper alternative and I purposely will not name any Brand However, the Greek Gods are probably disappointed with the quality of the paint named after their Holly Mountain.
Sure you can purchase cheaper paint. However most times it is cheaper because you get more water and less latex and pigmentation (color).
As a result you will need to apply more layers of paint to produce a decent result so you will need more paint and time.
Ergo you are saving nothing.
On top of that the lower latex content and likely lower content on UV protection as well as mildew protection will guarantee a short enjoyment of your work.
What Is A Paint Sheen & Why Do They Matter?
Highest grade of light reflection, Completed paint looks shiny and wet. Good use for trim and dark colors to counter the light absorbing effect of a dark shade. Because of it high reflection it will also show any imperfections in the surface.
My personal favor and mostly used sheen, Good light reflection, easy to clean, still shows imperfections.
Very little gloss cam be cleaned but moister will seep into the surface. Imperfections are slightly noticeable.
No glossy sheen, often used for exteriors, and inside of historic homes, most ceilings are painted flat because it hides imperfection very well. On the down side you can only barely wash it off.
Professional Paint Tips:
To keep the amount of labor to a minimum. You should purchase paint in a mid-range price when painting a room.
Here in the USA that would equate to $25 per gallon and up (2018). In most cases that is enough paint to cover all walls of a 12’x12’ room with 8′ ceilings.
1 gal paint covers roughly 400 Sf. You calculate your SF as follows:
12+12+12+12 (4 x 12ft walls) = 48 (linear feet of wall) ,
48Feet x 8ft (ceiling height) = 384 SF
On the first look this may seam to close and you are tempted to buy 2 gallons of paint. However keep in mind that we colored the primer and we did not subtract any windows or doors what in turn will save us paint.
You can save nicely if you plan ahead and purchase paint during sales events.
And you can make additional savings if you purchase larger quantities. For example a 5 Gal bucket of paint often cost about as much as four single gallon paint can.
Often you can find marked down paint because it did not match the color from a previous customer. I bought good quality paint for penny’s on the dollar like that,
How to choose the right professional color theme?
Did you know that colors can trigger emotions and behavior in humans? It is true … There are colors that let you relax better than others.
There are also color tones that will alert you and can increase your productivity. Heck, there are even some shades that can increase your appetite.
With all that said you might want to take a closer look at the Info-Graphic below. Before you make your final decision on what color theme you want to use in your room.
What Paint Tool or Painting Equipment do you need?
Paint Brushes (get some cheap 2″ to trash after use & A starter pack of good
ones that cost about $20)
Paint Roller & Handle
Paint Roller Extension Pole to reach the ceiling from the ground/ floor (you can try If the threads of your broomstick fits the roller handle) it is easier to paint a ceiling from the floor in comparison to working of a ladder.
3 Paint Tray Liner
Box Cutter or other Utility Knife
Small straight Screw Driver
The Material Checklist below I base on an average size 12x 14 Foot room. Where all Walls, Ceiling and trim gets painted and 3 different color shades are used.
1–2 tubes of painters caulk
120 grit Sanding Screens for Drywall – The screen works better then sandpaper because the paper will get clogged up too fast
80 grit sandpaper for sanding wood trim (sanding screen does not work as well here)
1 gal. of Primer (Kilz is good Zinsser is better)
One gal of finish paint for your walls
1 gal of paint for your ceiling
One quart of trim paint (Acrylic)
Painters Plastic to cover flooring and heavy Furniture
1–2 rolls of Painters Tape (first-timers should use about 2″ wide and do not buy the cheap stuff)
Rags old t-shirt to trash will be good
Trash-bag larger garbage bag will be fine
Professional Paint Tips:
When it comes to buying your paint materials here are some additional professional paint tips.
You probably noticed that paint roller come in a variety of thickness. You choose the right roll based on the surface you paint. For example a short hair roller is for slick walls like plastered or drywall walls. The thicker ones ore for rough and structured surfaces like stukko or brick walls.
If you only paint one or two rooms you can buy some cheap 1 Dollar paintbrushes for the primer application. However, if you are planning to paint many rooms you might want to consider to purchase mineral spirit and a wire-brush. This way you can use a better paintbrush and clean it or park it till next use in a glass of mineral spirit.
Most Building Supplier offer starter kit that come with a paint tray, Paint roller and Handle Some may even include a paintbrush.
Compare the prices, sometimes it’s a savings most times it is not. Go for a metal tray and a pack of liners Get a roller handle and a pack of rollers. Buy a starter pack of Paintbrushes usually in 4 sizes that will give all the paint tools you need.
Look at your room and inspect it for larger holes, like the size of a door handle.
If that happened you either need a patch kit or a plastic cover plate.
Also this way you can judge how much of sheet rock mud you may need. For Your Information at the current time a 5 gal bucket is only about $15 and you just trash the rest.
Where in the paint department a small pound size container runs about $6 bucks, Plus you can keep the bucket that comes in handy to store your new paint tools. And that one would cost you about $5 bucks if you buy one.
Keep the cardboard Paintbrush Sleeve.
After you done and cleaned out your brushes you stick them back into their sleeve. That will keep your brush protected and in good shape. That’s why the more expensive brushes have Velcro on their sleeves.
You should spend more money on Masking-Tape (painters tape) and stick to blue or green tape (3M – Brand) it will not bleed trough if installed right and removes much easier and in one piece in comparison to the cheap tan color tape. As a beginner you should stick to a at least 2 Inch better 4 Inch wide painters tape.
How To Use Painters Tape Like A Pro?
Let’s say you tape of the baseboard so you can paint the interior walls.
You start in one corner of your room. Usually it Start by unrolling about 2 feet of tape but do not terr it of. tack the edge against the wall. First in the corner and then about half way down (1foot).
Since you attached the painters tape to only 2 spots you can still move the tape in between those 2 points. Move the tape edge as close as possible to the wall and tack it down a a few more spots.
Next you rub with your finger tips (I use my Index & Middle Finger) and attach the remaining stretch of those 2 feet. It is important not to bend or fold the tape. Therefore do not pull the outer painting tape edge (the one that faces you) down onto the baseboard. As shown in the images below.
The easiest way to get the corners nice and square is to use your putty knife.
Simply run a little stretch of tape up the wall and press the straight edge of your putty knife onto the baseboard and against the wall and terr the excess tape of.
Why should you not tape onto the baseboard? Because if you use a little too much paint it will run down the tape onto the baseboard or even the floor.
Leaving The Painter tape Straight will kind of work as a stop and prevents the paint run.
That is why you need to remember that you should always remove the masking tape shortly after you painted your borders. And that you need to buy more tape than the required footage because you will have to do more then one time taping.
If your tape wrinkles you should pull it of the edge of your trim, baseboard or whatever you try to mask. And either pull this wrinkles out. Or terr of the tape and start adding a new piece by simply overlapping the already installed tape by about an Inch.
Should you buy blue or green painters tape?
Honestly? There maybe some slight advantages in using on or the other in special applications. There maybe even some I am not aware of. However, for what we are doing and what this article describes.
Choosing blue verses green painters tape, seams to me more like a personal preference than a technical reason. Maybe it will strike a clients fancy. I used both and I go by the price per yard. Therefor I most times get the blue kind as illustrated because up to today it is the cheaper one.
Professional Paint Tips:
Move always into the same direction and do not start in each corner and fill the rest. Because if the overlaps are all in the same direction you will be able to pull of the tape in one stretch instead of having to pull of a bunch of little sections. What will make this much faster and easier. For example you tape from left to the right and remove the tape from the right to the left.
Yeah when the paint is still wet.That will give you a perfect and clean line.
If you let the paint dry you take chances that either the tape keeps tearing or worse you tear the paint itself and need to touch all of it up.
Step 1: Prep-Work is the biggest part of a professional paint job!
Therefor I will explain to you how to prep a wall for paint like a pro.
Clear out the room as much as you can. If you do not have the space for the furniture, move it into a garage. Layout floor cover (painters plastic) or drop cloth.
You can either buy a roll of Painters plastic that will last for the whole house or buy single sheets at a dollar tree. Either way, just make sure you have all flooring covered up.
If you use plastic tape it to the floor in door-ways to keep it from moving.
If there is carpet you can also tape it to the base board or Door Casing for know. Scrape all imperfections and loose paint of your walls with a putty knife. Small Nail-holes can be filled with caulking larger ones you better patch with drywall bud.
I personally fill all with mud.
Because caulking will show up with a different sheen after you painted. Most likely you will have to apply mud a few times and make sure you scrape all exes mud off so you can minimize sanding (big gobs of mud take forever)
Use the time in between applications to prep all the wood work. If you are painting all trim window & Door casings you should sand all imperfection of with the 80 grit sandpaper.
If there are paint runs from previous painting you should do your best to get rid of them or they will ruin your job. You should also fill holes or cracks on the wood work and doors with wood-putty that you slightly sand out ones dried.
Sand your drywall mud between applications so you do not get a big build up. And apply a new layer if you still have a indention in the wall.
Ones all this prep work is done you should remove all dust out of the room. Brush off the walls and trim, or use a vacuum for the biggest part and wash off the rest with a damp cloth.
Next, it is probably best to replace the floor cover. Take the tape loose and pickup each corner of the plastic to form a bag so you have about all dust in the plastic and don’t spread the mess.
Now you should caulk all edges and the inside corners of your room. By all edges I mean where the trim lays on the walls. Use either a damp rag or your finger to wipe down your applied caulking.
Professional Paint Tips:
No worry if you make a mess with painters caulk at first. You can mix yourself a bowl of water with a little dish-soap and wash the caulking of. It is useful to cut only a small opening on your calk-tube. So clip only a small piece of the tip. Also you should cut it in an about a 45 degree angle but that does not need to be perfect. Larger gaps should be filled with sheet rock mud and sanded before caulking Ones all cracks are filled and all caulking is completed you can move on to the next step.
Watch the how to prep walls for paint Video that might give you additional clues.
By now you should see some progress in the appearance of your room you did good.
Next you should use the small screw driver and remove all cover plates from electrical receptacles and switches. Either place all screws into a zip-lock bag or bowl. Or do as I do and put them back in, so none get lost.
If you paint the ceiling you should also loosen the light fixture trim and slide it down your pendent light. Flush Mounted fixtures you should tape off.
You better wrap your light fixture with painters plastic to keep paint splatter away from the fixture.
Don’t forget to replace the floor cover because next we start painting.
Apply a coat of Primer
Even though modern paints have already a primer included I still use and recommend to use a primer coat first. And I will tell you why: If you patched holes with drywall mud or exposed wood through sanding these areas will soak up paint. Remember 1 Gal of paint will cover roughly 400 SF and usually you should place one coat of primer and 2 coat of finish paint.
Professional Paint Tips:
Primer cost much less than a good finish paint. For example if you installed new sheetrock the paper needs to be sealed and 5 Gal of PVA-Primer will cost around $30 in comparison to a mid-grade finish paint that will cost about $120 per 5 gallon.
The trick is to get the primer tinted (colored).
Ask your Paint Supplier to tint your primer to match closely to your finish.
How long does it take for the primer to dry?
The Kilz or Zinsser drytime will greatly vary by the thickness of the applied layer, room temperature, and humidity. You can refer to the product instruction of you chosen primer. Also, if it feels dry to the touch and is not sticky you should be able to move to the next step.
Roughly sand of the primed wall surface to remove pilled up dust. Wipe with your hand over the wall does it feel rough? Use your drywall hand-sander and wipe the wall of. This will create a nice smooth finish on slick walls.
Congratulations you completed all Prep-Work and now the fun part begins!
Step 2: Start To Paint The Ceiling Like A Professional Painter
Regardless if you are applying primer or finish paint, the best way to paint a room yourself like a professional is to follow this method.
Start by stirring your paint thoroughly and place a paint liner into your paint tray. We use liners because it will make it easier to switch colors or paints. And it will keep you from having to clean up the tray each time you change paint.
When painting a room you should start with the ceiling. Because if you would do it the other way around. Ceiling paint could get splattered onto your walls. And it would be a shame if you already had finish painted those.
So start with the ceiling if you decide on painting it as well.
First you should use a 2-4 Inch paint brush and paint all the outlining edges. Where the wall meets the ceiling. The guy on the ladder in the image above is cutting in . While the the other one uses a paint-roller on an paint roller extension pole to fill the wall area.
If there is crown molding installed (ceiling trim) you should either tape it of, or paint it like the ceiling as you can see in the photo as well.
Professional Paint Tips:
To improve mobility you can poor some paint into a rinsed out milk jar (1gal)
or a 2-3 litter soda bottle. Simply take the box-cutter and cut the jug about half way off. Don’t use the tray till you use the paint roller.
Painting the crown molding in a different shade of color will make is pop out more. However, if you have a small room, painting the trim and molding in the same color as the walls will make this room look larger. Also, If you paint the ceiling darker as the walls and combine it with a darker floor the room will appear larger.
After the cutting in is done you can use a paint-roller to fill out the rest of the area.
Poor enough paint into your tray to fill up the lower storage part of the tray. And close the paint can or bucket back up.
Don’t worry if you get the paint level a little on the rippled area of the tray. Just don’t fill the tray all up! Because the rippled area is used to squeeze some of the excess paint out of your paint roller and helps to cover the roller more evenly with paint.
Basically you will dunk your roller into the lower paint tank and then roll it in 2-3 strokes over the rippled part of your paint tray.
Then you can move your paint roller on to the wall and paint. In case you don’t know this, you best apply paint in an overlapping or crossing method to ensure that you don’t miss a spot.
Meaning you should paint like in a V, W or X pattern.
When you noticed that the paint on your wall fades you repeat the steps of dunking and rolling to pickup new paint.
Ones you are done get a small trash-bag or plastic grocery bag and wrap up your paint roller. This will prevent it from drying out.
Step 3: How to paint a wall yourself like a Pro?
While your first coat of ceiling paint is drying you can continue to cut-in the walls. Basically you will paint a wall in the same way as you just did the ceiling.
Here is a Video on how to paint a wall basics that you should watch!
Professional Paint Tips:
Before you apply your first layer of finish paint you need to rough sand off all wall area after the primer coat is dried. Why? Because your paint roller collected all the fine dust from sanding that remained and creates little cluster of paint and dust.
Just wipe with your hand over the walls and you can feel it. It feels like sandpaper right? Get your hand-sander place a 120 grid screen into it and just sort of wipe of the dust. And check in between if the wall feels slick.
If you are painting textured-walls you can skip this step.
Start by painting around all windows baseboards and doors, as well as in each corner of your room by using your 3″ Paintbrush. It is also smart to paint around your electrical receptacles and switches.
By the time you done all that, the ceiling should be ready for another coat of paint. You can also refer to the instructions on your paint can label.
Keep in mind to work your “v” “W” or “X” paint pattern. After you applied the second coat of ceiling paint you should give it a break and wait till the next day and let it all dry. If in the next morning you still find a few missed spots you can paint those over. Professional Painter call this a ” touch up.”
Also to create a professional finish you need to rough sand off all wall area after the primer coat is dried. Why? Because your paint roller collected all the fine dust from sanding that remained and creates little cluster of paint and dust.
Just wipe with your hand over the walls and you can feel it. It feels like sandpaper right? Get your hand-sander place a 120 grid screen into it and just sort of wipe of the dust.
And check in between if the wall feels slick.
If you are painting textured-walls you can skip this step.
Step 4: How to Paint trim & baseboards like a pro
After you completed your ceiling and wall paint, you should take a break from painting and let all of it dry.
Take a quick look and check for any missed spots before you clean up your paint tools for the day. Also double check that you removed all Painters tape.
The reason why I call it quits is that it is much harder to paint trim when the walls are still wet. It gets really messy if you hit the wrong places so wait till the next day.
The following Morning, you best check if all the borders at your trim are dry.
If so, you can start taping the walls off along the trim edges. Or if you feel confident enough start painting your trim free hand. Practice on an section that won’t show like the door casing inside of a closet or the baseboard behind the sofa. By now you should have a feel for the paint and how it flows.
You can do it. And if you miss take a rag wipe it off and touch it up later.
Step 5: Cleaning & Store your painting tools for next time
All you need to clean are your more expensive brushes rinse the once that you used for latex paint under running water. Use cold or warm water.
Rinse as long as it takes till the runoff water is as clear as from the tab.
Turn your brush upside down (handle pointing to the ground and run water into the brush to flush out paint that run back to the handle while you worked over head. If the water is clear turn her back over and tap it onto the sink like you would paint it.
Finally use a scrub or Nail brush and brush the paintbrush bristles from the handle to the end out to remove any paint that may have dried on.
Lastly give one more rinse and take it outside to sling the water out.
Professionals tap the brush on the tip of their shoes to slink out the last water. Straight out the brush bristles and place it back into its sleeve till you need it again.
How to make a Painting Job Fun ?
Make it a party. Have your friends come over and make it a group effort add some music and if you like a few beers and the job gets done in no time. Painting a kids room for the little ones. Get them involved, kids love to paint. Use latex so it will wash out or maybe even get finger paints and let them go wild. When mine where little they where big sponge bob fans. So we decided to paint the room like under water. We bought wall paper with fish and other under water creatures on it and cut those out and clued them on the underwater world. This was a fun party and project and we all still talk about it.
The big advantage of using a paint sprayer is time savings. However, It takes skill and practice to work with a professional paint sprayer. With out this practice you are very likely to create or wind up with a big mess.
Therefore I would not recommend to use a sprayer to a beginner.
I use a sprayer for exterior jobs, commercial applications and if I have to paint many rooms.
Should you decide to try it anyways here are some pointers.
Cover all walls, windows doors and flooring with painters plastic.
Rent or buy a professional grade paint sprayer.
Follow closely your sprayers manual
Get practice – start if possible in a basement or garage where it does not matter if you spray too much paint and get runs.
When Spraying interior walls or ceilings Use as little as possible pressure. This will reduce the amount of paint shooting out of your paint gun.
While spraying, keep your spray-gun moving and pull the trigger in a pumping like motion (keep letting go don’t hold the trigger pulled)
Don”t forget to wear a appropriate breathing mask and Eye protection.
By now you probably realize that this actually is more work then just using paint brush and paint roller. And you are right. I would never use one for just a room or two.
Another con or drawback is that you actually still roll after you sprayed to make sure you do not get paint runs.
Further, you waste paint if you spray you cover only about 350 SF. Because some paint gets lost in the mist (over spray that’s why you should cover the walls) and your paint coat is much thicker.
Plus you need to break down the sprayer and clean all the parts and pieces. While you can just pull off the roller cartridge and toss it into a trash-bag.
Now I like to turn it over to you!
Did you find everything you needed to know? Will you be able to paint your first room? Do you have any questions? If so please comment below. Please don’t forget to like & share with you friends Thanks for reading. JK 🙂
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